Stoll | emilykeller

STOLL

Trend Collection AW 12/13 Re-Think

流行款式集锦重译

The thought of reusing “refuse” and sustainable yarns is being integrated into knitwear. New resources from plant fibers as well as natural dying features are being explored. Alternative solutions show the way to combine these elements in an innovative and sophisticated way.

The colours range from earthy stone greys to warm purple and violet, while black and crème are a neutralizing go-between.

Starting from materials like stone, glass and plastic, natural optics and transparent features have been integrated into the collection. Transparency and layering techniques are important themes as well as the clean black and white group that is a graphic statement of modernity.

3D effects have been realized by intarsia technique as well as racking structures. Knitted woven optics flow through the collection and show how the re-thinking of materials is mainly used in fabrics. Traditional patterns, such as variations of the classic “houndstooth” in jacquards are examples of symbolic re-use in garments.

Knitting technology and handmade elements work together while applications become the base structure and are completed by macramé elements.

I programmed this piece in Stoll M1 with the assistance of the head technician. I used a mix of intarsia for the pattern, and half cardigan (also known as half fisherman) stitch for the structure.

The half cardigan stitch combined with the chunky gauge and the novelty yarn creates lots of texture and dimension.

The novelty yarn ties back into the mood of the inspiration of sustainability, refuse, and recycling.

100% Merino Wool

2/30 NM 3 End

Colors - Gray & Cream

100% Polyamide

NM 3.7 1 End

Color - Pale Pink

A knit version of jeggings. A mix of leggings and denim.

To add texture and dimension, a variety of stitches (links links, tucks, and alternate stitches) were used in a random, camouflage-like pattern. The multi-color sketch in the tech pack represents the placement of different stitches.

These jeggings were knitted on a chunky multigauge machine with 100% Merino Wool Xinao Cashfeel 2/30 NM in purple, and 100% Primaloft Polyester 2/30NM in black and white. The Black and white melange effect gives a washed denim look.

This double layer stitch is one of my signature stitches I have been developing since my studies at The Fashion Institute of Technology. You can see it in the skirt of my FIT graduate runway show look.

At Stoll, I assisted in developing this jacket, highlighting new machine capabilities; layered structure with partial cast off, integrated tubular placket, and holding stitches for cuff and hem.